K-130 wattage

[Dave Meis]

Does anyone know the wattage rating of a JBL K-130?
It’s been reconed to 4 ohms,..( I don’t know if that makes any difference )…
Thanks!

[Richard Sinkler]

The JBL K series speakers have varied wattages, with the JBL K120 rated at 100 watts continuous, the K130 at 125 watts continuous, and the K140 and K145 at 150-300 watts continuous, with variations depending on the specific model.
Here's a breakdown of some common JBL K series speakers:
JBL K120:
Rated for 100 watts continuous sine wave power.
JBL K130:
Handles 125 watts continuous sine wave power.
JBL K140/K145:
These models have a higher power rating, with the K145 rated at 300 watts continuous power.
The power handling for the K series can also vary slightly based on reconing or the specific application. For example, some sources list 150 watts continuous for the K140 and K120, while others specify 100 watts or 125 watts.

Link to JBL Spec sheet: https://jblpro.com/da/site_elements/k11 ... nformation

[Dave Meis]

Thanks! I have a 135w Twin modded for a single 15”, and was wondering if I could run it without an extension speaker. Knowing that I would play at a max of 60 +\-, it seems that it would be fine.

[Donny Hinson]

Most steelplayers simply don't have to worry about blowing speakers, unless they're using a distortion pedal! (Call it what you will - overdrive, fuzz, crunch, whatever.). That's because we're not thrashing distorted bass notes or windmilling chords, or playing ballsy Chalker-esque C6th chords at peak levels. Fortunately, the huge majority of us don't play that way. I'd be confident in saying that 98% of steelplayers out there seldom use above 50 watts, or maybe 75 watts, tops, in a huge indoor, or an outdoor venue. Keep in mind that when an amp says "___ watts total output RMS" that means operating the amp with ALL the controls set at maximum; volumes and tones all at "10", and the instrument putting out a continuous maximum tone. You see, when you take an amp and dial down the tone controls, you know "treble at 4, mids at 7, bass at 6", you've probably (and unknowingly) reduced the amps output power by 30%-40%, and that's because most all amp tone controls are subtractive. (They contour your tone by removing frequencies that you don't want.) The more you dial down the tone controls, the less output you actually have. In addition, if you don't run both the pre and master gains at 10, you've further reduced the total output the amp is capable of. And that's why that 300-watt amp that a lot of steelers use is really only putting out 50-75 watts, tops. I should also mention that a speaker rated at 100 watts RMS will also likely handle significantly more than that, as long as it's for very short periods of time. Playing style has a lot to do with it, too. Playing like Lloyd Green or Chet Atkins, with smooth and controlled playing, you could safely use a 50 watt speaker in a 125 watt amp without ever having a problem.

And on the rare occasions that some steelers have blown speakers, most of those times it was likely due to an impedance mismatch, or a problem with the amp itself.