Shobud Bell Crank Question

[Paul Hutzler]

I have a 1975 Shobud Pro II with the two hole bell crank. I can't get enough throw to set up my 3rd string change from G# to F#. Is there an extension that someone made for the bellcrank so you can get a little more distance out of the pull. Edit: The changer is 2 up and 1 down.

[Kenny Davis]

I'm assuming you have a single raise / single lower changer. You might consider moving it to the top (or farthest from the body) bell crank hole that is usually the position for the lowers. That might shorten the throw some. I think Bud's with triple raise changers calls for the #3 bell crank hole which would be farther away from the bottom of the guitar. I have a '73 Pro II and I can't remember having that issue. Might check to make sure you're not over tuned at the end.

[Ian Worley]

...set up my 3rd string change from G# to F#...

It would be a 2/1 changer, no barrels (and the year). A whole step lower on E9 string 3 is not a common change, and is a challenge even on most modern guitars. I'd be surprised if it's even possible on yours. On those older Buds with the three piece scissor, the changer geometry is such that the lowers can't move the finger much, travel is very limited. On a very small, high-pitched string that's a problem for what you're after. A heavier string like a .012 will shorten the pull slightly but probably not enough to lower it to F#

[Kenny Davis]

I guess it would help if I read his post a little better...

[Paul Hutzler]

Thanks for the replies. I didn't do a great job of explaining the changer type. Sorry. Yes it is a 2 raise 1 lower on the changer. And like I said before, its 2 positions on the bellcrank. I thought some smart fella might have created a bellcrank extension that gives you a 3rd position on the bellcrank. But i appreciate that i might be asking too much out of a 70s shobud. I can get my 2005 Carter S10 to do the 3rd string G# lowered to F# change. But on the Shobud maybe i can get a little more travel out of my pedal though to get that G# the rest of the way down to F#.

[Ricky Davis]

One very important tip is to Unhook or take off the 3rd string "Raise Spring"> that's that little flimsy spring next to the wood body attaching to a metal bracket.
The raise spring will interfere with the horizontal moving LOWER section of the finger. Yes use the brass roller on the furthest hole from bottom of body on Puller. and YES use a .012p. > distance to stop screw to get that F# is out there pretty far.
ALSO> Usually the 3rd string Lower return spring is fairly tight on that tightening screw at endplate; so the raise section will move faster to move with the 6th string better; but that's another spring you need to tend to....>you want it to loosen a little; I usually loosen it to the point of almost moving inward when just raising that finger; but do not loosen to the point where it does move inward a little when raising...that's a NO NO. ; so keep it just tight enough; but it being looser will let finger lower a little easier; but do those first things I said here First.
Have fun.
Ricky

[Paul Hutzler]

Cool thanks Ricky. I'll check that out.

[Ian Worley]

I just set this up on my test board with an old 1/1 Bud finger (same geometry). It will in fact reach F# within its range of motion with an .011, just barely, it's a long pull. A .012" would be better. Keep the lower return spring as loose as possible to just keep the lowering arm firmly seated at the open position or on a raise (same as Ricky suggested above). It should be doable by adjusting the pedal/lever stops, but if that makes the pull just to long to be practical, just about any bell crank that fits a 5/16" shaft could be made to work with a little finagling. You could also easily extend the two-hole crank with a small steel strap of the same thickness (~3/32") from the hardware store, drill and screw it to the two holes in the crank with some low profile 1/4" screws and add a third 1/4" hole for the swivel out on the extended end.

[Paul Hutzler]

Ok, thanks a lot, Ian. Sounds doable.