Correct way to string a guitar?

[David Pennybaker]

Remember: There's no such thing as a stupid question, right?

Actually, this is for my dobro -- but I'm sure it applies to any type of guitar.

I've already had to replace two strings (my banjo was never like this -- go figure -- I must've been due).

On the first one, I put the string into the key, and WOUND LIKE CRAZY! I lost count, there were so many winds on that sucker. Must be at least 20. I didn't have to clip the string at all.

On the second one, I put the string through the hole, until it was almost taught. Then started winding. I maybe have ONE total wind on that string.

So, which is right? Probably neither? Is there some "correct" amount of winds I should be looking for? Is either way I did these 2 strings going to cause me problems down the road?

PS -- what do you use to cut off your strings?

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The Unofficial Photographer of The Wilkinsons
http://members.xoom.com/dpennybaker/index.htm

[Jim Landers]

David, I don't know what's considered right or wrong on this either, but I'll tell you what I do.

On the small strings, .015 and under, I go for 5 or 6 turns around the post. The mediums, up to about .034 get 3 or 4 winds, and the heavier strings get anywhere from about 1 1/2 to 2 or 3 winds. In other words, the heavier the string, the less times around the post.

This has worked pretty well for me, but I'd like to hear what other people are doing too. There might be a better way.

Jim

[Tim Rowley]

David, as far as number of winds, go with what Jim said. Remember that when taking the second wrap on a wound string or the 3rd or 4th wrap on a plain string you should always cross your wrap over to the other side to prevent string slippage on the post. By the time you have changed strings 100 times or so, it gets to be pretty much a no-brainer. As to the proper tool for cutting strings to length, use a real small pair of good quality diagonal cutters. Tim R.

[David Pennybaker]

<SMALL>Remember that when taking the second wrap on a wound string or the 3rd or 4th wrap on a plain string you should always cross your wrap over to the other side to prevent string slippage on the post.</SMALL>

I'm not sure I understand that statement. Do you mean that if the first few wraps are on the left side of the hole in the post, that the remaining should be on the right side of the hole?

How do I figure out how many wraps I'm gonna get before I start winding? Is it just experience on how much slack to leave in the string before I start winding?

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The Unofficial Photographer of The Wilkinsons
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[Jon Light (deceased)]

Here's a rule of thumb for the steel--plus or minus--
the string should be two tuner posts longer than you need. Pull it through your post, grab it two posts beyond, push it back through to your measured point, crimp and wind. However your 3rd string should be doubled to four posts of slack.
And I find that to be too much extra for the real fat strings.
Now your steel posts are closer together than on a resoguit so I would reduce these amounts to taste.
See Carter's--
http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/infoindex.html

--for better detail.
Even though steel specific you can adapt this to your needs.
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jon Light on 17 September 2000 at 07:29 AM.]</p></FONT>

[C Dixon]

I was never satisfied changing strings on my steel, until several years ago.

I was with a fellow steel player and saw him change his strings. I got so intrigued with his systematic approach, I had him show me how he did it on a later occassion. I have used his technique ever since on my Emmons' LeGrande. (no need to on my Excel-it is keyless). Once learned, it is fast, accurate and never ever has it broken a string at the keyhead since.

Here is the procedure if anyone is interested:

1. Start with the 1st string. work thru the longest string. Then start with the last string and work thru the longest string.

2. Bend a very loose arc in the string at the ball end so it lays on the changer near its final curve. This will help hold the ball on the pin as you are putting it on.

3. Hook the ball on the pin. (or the captive part of the changer on some guitars)

4. Stretch the string all the way to the nut and beyond the key post. (Note: the amount of distance you go beyond the post varies as to gauge. Experiment until you end up with 5 or 6 wraps on the smaller gauges*. to 1 and 1/2 on the real big gauges.) In time you will remember just how far to go past each post for each gauge string.

5. Place your finger at this point on the string. And hold it tight.

6. Remove the string and cut it at that length.

7. With a small pair of needle nose pliers, bend the cut end of the string back on itself about 1/2".

8. Adjust the key until the hole is horizontal and hook this bent end over the top of the post and into the hole. The sharp bend will hold it in the hole as you keep a light pull on the string.

9. Keeping the string somewhat taught, stretch it all the way to the changer end. And as you do, make a large upward bow in the string with your left hand and fasten the ball onto the pin (or captive part), with your right hand.

10. As your left hand holds this bow high (keeping the string loosely taught), wind the key until it is tight. As the bow gets lessor and lessor, guide the string so it is in the center on top of the changer and also in the groove of the nut roller.

By the way there is NO need to wind the 3rd string slowly up to pitch. This myth was proved false long long ago. If a string breaks when winding, you either have a burr somewhere or the string was defective in the package. As the late and great Gene O'Neal used to say to me, "Carl, run that strang rat on up there!". Time has long since proven him to be correct.

Several aids you might consider:

1. Small needle nose pliers.

2. Small pair of side cutters (Dikes)

3. A battery operated screwdriver with a string winder attachment. Make SURE its RPM is NO greater than 300. Reason: you can anneal the soft aluminum key head if the RPM is too great. Black and Decker makes a great one for this (180 RPM max). Around 13-16 dollars at Home Depot.

* On the 3rd string make sure you have at least 5 tight wraps that go over the top of the post. Also insure, on all strings, the wraps are in the direction that permits the string to form a straight line over the nut roller. There should be NO bend in the string as it goes over the roller except in a downward direction. The reason for this; it helps to lesson hysterisis. (a string not coming back true when it it is raised, then lowered and vice versa)

Finally, never have a wrap crossover another wrap. This is not a good idea at all, IMHO.

May our Precious Lord help you in what ever you do,

carl

[marley hay]

David,I place my hand vertically over the nut,so I get 4 fingers worth of slack in the string.Then wind the string around the post,allowing the short end to pass under the string.On the second time around,let the short end pass over the string,so that the remaining wraps are going down from the hole in the post.On your larger strings,the low G- B-D,three fingers worth of slack is OK.

[mikey]

I string the way Jon Light does on every stringed instrument....2 tuners past, a little less on bass strings...
mike

[Ron Sobel]

Hey David:

The only stupid questions are the ones you DON'T ask!

I find that the cordless screwdriver helps tremendoulsy, especially in getting a neat wrap around the post, which BTW is important to keeping the thing in tune.

About the wraps, I believe in 'less is more' especially on wound strings. 2-2-1/2 wraps at most is what I go for, and 3 - 3-1/2 on unwound.

On my Dobro, '47 National and '60's Stringmaster double 8 I also use a strip of artist's masking tape on the tailpiece end. Doesn't ruin any finishes, and temporarily keeps the string on the tailpiece where it belongs, so I can devote my attention to the headstock.

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Ron
Steelin' in Cresskill